If you are not sure whether certain colors of a yarn match, please send us an email to support@maschenfein.de and write us which colors you have in mind. We will then check for you whether these colors fit together and make you an alternative suggestion if necessary.
It's hard for us when you ask what color you should knit a certain tutorial in, because we don't know your preferences. If you tell us which direction you tend to go or what other colors you like, it will be easier for us to choose the right one for you.
Unfortunately, we cannot offer this service for our other manufacturers. But feel free to email us at support@maschenfein.de if you are unsure about your color choice.
I like a pattern but I do not know what yarn from the store I could take for it. Where can I turn to?
In this case you are welcome to send us an email to support@maschenfein.de. Please indicate in the mail which pattern it is (if necessary with web link), which yarn was specified in the original, which gauge is in the information and if necessary in which size you want to knit the design. We will be happy to select suitable yarns for you and help you calculate the required quantities.
I like a model from a Sandnes magazine but I want to knit it from a different yarn. Is it possible?
Yes and no...
If the other yarn is also from Sandnes, an exchange is no problem. In this case, feel free to write us an email at support@maschenfein.de
It is a condition of Sandnes to sell the magazines only in combination with Sandnes yarns. It is therefore not possible to replace the yarn of a Sandes kit with yarn from another manufacturer and order the pattern or magazine together with yarn from another manufacturer.
Knitting kits and wool packages
I want to knit something for a child. Where can I find a suitable knitting kit?
If you click on the "Knitting Sets" tab in our menu navigation, you will see an overview of all knitting set categories. If you click on a category, you will see all the corresponding knitting sets that we have in the store. There you will find different filter functions. Among other things, you can display all kits for "babies", "boys" or "girls". If you are looking for a specific child size, you can also set the size filter accordingly.
I like a model from a Sandnes magazine but I want to knit it from a different yarn. Is it possible?
Yes and no...
If the other yarn is also from Sandnes, an exchange is no problem. In this case, feel free to write us an email at support@maschenfein.de
It is a condition of Sandnes to sell the magazines only in combination with Sandnes yarns. It is therefore not possible to replace the yarn of a Sandes kit with yarn from another manufacturer and order the pattern or magazine together with yarn from another manufacturer.
How do I find all the knitting kits for a particular magazine?
If you click on the "Knitting Sets" tab in our menu navigation, you will see an overview of all knitting set categories. If you click on a category, you will see all the corresponding knitting sets that we have in the store. Here you can use different filter functions. Among other things, you can display all kits for which the pattern are in the same magazine or which belong to a collection. Click on the filter "Books/Magazines" and select the corresponding magazine/collection. After activating the filter, all related kits will be displayed.
How do I find knitting kits/wool packs for a particular yarn or size?
If you click on the "Knitting Sets" tab in our menu navigation, you will see an overview of all knitting set categories. If you click on a category, you will see all the corresponding knitting sets that we have in the store. There you will find different filter functions. For example, you can use the size filter to display all kits if you are looking for kits in a certain size. You can use the yarn filter to select the kits that we have put together from the respective yarn. Alternatively, you can click on the button "Go to all kits with this yarn" in the product description of a yarn.
What is the difference between a knitting kit and a wool package?
With a knitting kit you can order the pattern directly in the product in our store. For the wool package we have set a link in the product description to the page where you can buy the pattern separately.
Skein - Ball - Winder & Co
Can I knit wool directly from the skein?
No. Before a skein can be knitted, it must be wound (see "How to wind a skein into a ball"), otherwise the wool would knot.
In principle, you can wind a skein into a ball without any further equipment so that the yarn can be knitted. To do so, you can place the skein over a chair back or your knees, or ask someone to hold the skein under tension with both hands before you wind it into a more or less pretty ball, in quite tedious work and faster or slower depending on the yardage. On YouTube you can also find videos on how to wind balls most sensibly by hand, so that you can even knit them off from the inside afterwards.
It is faster if you have a reel or winder at hand. The skein is placed over the size-adjustable reel and wound into a ball with the help of the winder. These balls can be knitted off wonderfully from the inside or outside.
Not necessarily. But it's easier to eat when you have a fork and knife at hand ;-) "Only one reel" brings the advantage that you can unwind the skein neatly. You still have to wind the ball yourself. "Only one winder" works if you have someone to help, who either operates the winder while you hold the skein yourself or who plays the "skein holder". Because with a winder and the back of a chair as a holder for the rope, it's very difficult.
Always knit the swatch in the pattern specified for the gauge. The gauge numbers do not always refer to stockinette stitch. Occasionally, the gauge is also specified for the pattern used in the knitted piece.
Always knit a few more stitches and rows for the sample than specified for 10 x 10 cm. This is the only way you can count the sample sensibly afterwards.
Occasionally, the gauge is also given in rounds. In this case, take your time and actually make a swatch in rounds, because many knitters have slightly different stitch counts in rounds and rows. You can either knit a small sample in rounds and cut it open (steek) or knit only right side rows, push the stitches at the end of the row back to the other end of the needle and lead the thread behind the work back to the beginning of the row.
Wash and dry your swatch as you will do with your knitted piece later. In the case of a shawl, for example, the swatch should be stretched under tension, while in the case of a garment it should be stretched into shape and dried with a light fixation. Sometimes the patterns also specify how the swatch should be treated.
Fibers and stitch definition change after washing. Under certain circumstances, the number of stitches and rows per 10 cm can change dramatically after washing. Therefore, it is important to wash and dry a swatch in the same way as the finished knitted piece.
If, for example, a gauge would change from 22 to 21 sts per 10 cm after washing, that doesn't look like much of a change at first. But for a chest circumference of 90 cm, you need 198 stitches with 22 stitches, and only 189 stitches with 21 stitches. That's a difference of 9 stitches, which means a difference of 4 cm in the end.
What do I do if the gauge of my swatch doesn't fit?
If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, you can make another swatch with a larger needle. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, the needle you used was too big and another swatch with a smaller needle makes sense.
If you do not want to change the needle size, it may be sufficient to change to a different size for a garment. To do this, you can calculate the number of stitches you need using the number of stitches from your swatch and your measurements. Compare this number of stitches with the other sizes in the pattern. If none of the information fits, you have to convert the pattern to your gauge.
Why do I need to wash a knitted piece after finishing it?
The fibers of the knitted fabric change during washing, some of them literally fluff up. This often makes the stitch definition more uniform. Some patterns only come into their own with the right after-treatment. You can also find a detailed article on the subject of "washing and blocking" here on our blog. There we show impressive before and after results.
Residues of dyeing are rinsed out by the first wash before wearing.
We always recommend hand washing for knitwear. To do this, pour lukewarm water into the sink or a suitable container and add wool soap / wool detergent.
Put the knitted piece into the prepared water and move it carefully (!!!) in the water so that the wool soap can penetrate into the fibers. Then let the knitted piece soak for about 15 minutes. Caution: For strong colors, it is advisable to keep the knitted piece moving gently. If the colors bleed, the process should be repeated with fresh water and wool soap, if necessary, until no more color comes out.
When using wool detergent, rinse the knitted piece with clear water after the soaking time. Wool soap does not need to be rinsed out.
Remove the knitted piece from the water and carefully squeeze out the water - do not wring! Put the wet piece on a large spread towel (depending on the weight of the wool, it is recommended to put two bath towels on top of each other) and roll up the towel together with the knitted piece. Carefully walk around on this roll. The water is thus pressed out of the wool fibers and absorbed directly by the towel.
Allow the knitted piece to dry (possibly under tension) on tension mats or a dry bath towel (see "How do I block a knitted piece?").
Even if manufacturers often specify the wool washing cycle in the washing machine on the labels, it is always advisable to test this in advance on the swatch to avoid unpleasant surprises. This is not only about the correct washing temperature, but also about the friction to which the knitted piece is exposed in the washing machine and which can possibly lead to felting.
Once a knitted piece is off the needles, it is not (quite) finished. Now comes the most exciting part: washing and blocking. After washing (see "How do I properly wash and dry a knitted piece?"), your almost finished project should be blocked. This can look very different, depending on the knitted piece:
Hats: Hats can be blocked damp over a balloon blown to the appropriate circumference for stretching. Make sure that the cuff is not stretched too much, otherwise it can wear out.
Socks: For socks, there are sock blockers in various sizes. The damp socks are pulled over these. This makes sense especially for lace socks, because often the pattern only really comes into its own when stretched.
Shawls & Co: Most shawls look quite crumpled after being cast off. They only develop their full size, shape and, if necessary, pattern when properly blocked. Blocking wires are best suited for this purpose. These are passed through the edge stitches and then fixed in shape with the help of T-pins on blocking mats. We do not recommend the use of conventional pins, as they can rust due to moisture and contaminate the knitted fabric. Blocking wires are available in stiff and flexible versions. You need the flexible wires if you want to block circular knitted pieces or semicircular cloths. For smaller cloths or narrow edges, comb pins are also excellent. Tensioning only with T-pins can quickly lead to "tip formation", which is why we advise against it for longer edges.
Sweaters, cardigans and co: If it is not explicitly stated in the pattern, sweaters or cardigans are not dried under full tension, but are simply spread into shape after washing and dried on the blocking mats fixed with comb pins. Drying on the mannequin is also possible. To do this, place the damp garment on the tailor's dummy and fix it in place. Make sure that any overlaps/collars... are fixed adequately, so that the shape is later as it should be. NEVER dry sweaters or cardigans hanging on a hanger or clothesline.
No. For many knits, it is sufficient to let them dry after washing, lying in the form and possibly fixed. Sweaters and cardigans can also be placed over a dressmaker's dummy to dry. But this is also often referred to as "blocking".
I would like to order only one magazine. Can this also be sent as a letter?
As a matter of principle, we only send our goods insured as a parcel.
Can I pre-order items that are currently out of stock?
Unfortunately, we cannot accept pre-orders for organizational reasons. However, you can be notified on the respective product page when a certain item is available again.
My paypal payment has been cancelled. What should I do now?
In case of a canceled PayPal payment, the order will be canceled automatically after a while. You can simply place the order again in this case. Please do not pay later externally via PayPal, because this payment can not be assigned.
Why don't I always get my order in one package?
Of course, we try to make our shipping as environmentally friendly as possible. For logistical reasons, however, it is not possible to send everything in one package for some orders. If we have to split your order, we will inform you by mail that you will receive more than one package from us.
Where can I find my ordered digital pattern?
For manuals that we sell as PDF files, a link is automatically sent in the processing confirmation email after payment has been received. If you have ordered the PDF manual via a created customer profile, you will also find your manuals in the "download area" of the customer account.
Why have I not received an order confirmation?
After a completed order we automatically send an order confirmation. Always ;-) If there is no confirmation in your mailbox, the email may have ended up in the spam folder.
My package does not contain all the items I ordered. Where is the rest?
Some orders cannot be shipped in one package for logistical reasons. In this case, we will send an email informing you that your order has been split into multiple shipments.
What does the note "Backorder" in my order mean?
"Backorder" means that we have to reorder this item ourselves before we can ship the order. This means that the item was not in stock at the time of the order and was marked accordingly in the shopping cart. Also, a pop-up will open where you have to confirm the backorder before you can add the yarn to the shopping cart. This will delay the delivery of the order by about 2 weeks.
Complaint
My needle is broken. Is there a replacement for it?
If a needle has a defect, take a photo that clearly shows the defect. Send this picture together with your name, the order number of the order to which the needle belongs, needle size, needle type and needle manufacturer to support@maschenfein.de. We will contact the manufacturer directly and forward your complaint.
Please understand that carelessness or wear and tear are not grounds for complaint.
When you have finished knitting your project, it is often necessary to wash the knitted piece and stretch it (in shape, if necessary). This calms the stitch definition and allows the pattern to unfold. We show you in two videos how the whole thing works. Just click on the respective link and you will be taken directly to YouTube.Wash and stretch sweater - Wash and stretch cap
Short rows
With short rows you can shape a knitted piece. In our videos we show two different methods. Just click on the respective link and you will be taken directly to YouTube.Wrap Stitch Knitting - Shortened Rows with Double Stitch (German Short Rows)
No. Often the sizes of industrially produced clothing differ from those in knitwear designs. Sizes may also differ between designers. It is better to compare the measurements given in the pattern with your own. For this purpose, you can also measure a gladly worn and well-fitting garment for comparison.
What are positive and negative ease?
Sometimes in pattern you can find the information positive ease or negative ease or a positive ease. This indicates how loose or tight the finished garment should be. Again, first determine your correct measurements and then add the suggested extra width. As a rule, you measure and calculate based on the circumference of the bust.
Won't my garment be too small with negative ease?
No. If negative ease is specified, it does not mean that your knit should end up being too small. Instead, the design is designed to be figure-hugging, or a yarn is used that is stretchy.
Knit sleeves
Sleeves in rounds or in rows?
Depending on the pattern, sleeves are knitted in rounds or rows. Sleeves knitted in rows must be sewn together at the end. This is often done with the so-called mattress stitch. If you are knitting seamless styles, the sleeves are knitted on directly. Then work in rounds from the shoulder to the cuff.
Magic Loop Method
You can knit sleeves in rounds using the magic loop method. Here you use circular needles with a long rope and divide the stitches into two halves. Knit one half at a time, then move the stitches on the rope and knit the second half. Alternatively, you can work with two circular needles: Here you also divide the stitches into two halves and distribute them on the two needles.
Knitting sleeves with double pointed needles
Of course, you can also knit sleeves with a needle set. Distribute the stitches evenly on four needles and knit the stitches with a fifth needle. Pay special attention to the transitions between the needles.
Short circular knitting needles
You can avoid unsightly transitions if you knit sleeves with short circular needles and a very short rope. Here you only need to mark the beginning of the round and then knit continuously in rounds until you reach the cuff.