No. Often the sizes of industrially produced clothing differ from those in knitwear designs. Sizes may also differ between designers. It is better to compare the measurements given in the pattern with your own. For this purpose, you can also measure a gladly worn and well-fitting garment for comparison.

Sometimes in pattern you can find the information positive ease or negative ease or a positive ease. This indicates how loose or tight the finished garment should be. Again, first determine your correct measurements and then add the suggested extra width. As a rule, you measure and calculate based on the circumference of the bust.

No. If negative ease is specified, it does not mean that your knit should end up being too small. Instead, the design is designed to be figure-hugging, or a yarn is used that is stretchy.

In addition to the name of the yarn, the manufacturer provides you with additional information on the label. The most important information for you is the material composition and the meterage, which refers to the specified weight of the ball.

If you want to compare the running lengths of two balls of yarn, make sure you do this in relation to the same weight. You may need to use the rule of three to convert the information for one of the yarns.

Calculation example:

One yarn has a meterage of 212 m/40 g. You would like to know the meterage per 50 g of yarn in order to compare it with another yarn:
212/40 = x/50
x = (212 : 40) x 50
x = 265
Based on 50g, the yarn has a meterage of 265m.

The recommended needle size and the specified gauge should be seen as a guide to the tension or density under which the yarn knits up best. However, the needle size you need to achieve this result is another matter and must be tried out.

The color number indicates the shade of the corresponding yarn collection. The lot number indicates the color bath from which this ball originates. As only a certain amount of yarn fits into a single dye bath during the yarn dyeing process, this information is important for processing the yarn later on. Although the dye baths for the same color are always produced in exactly the same way, the individual
baths may differ slightly from one another. Even white or beige yarns can have differences, but these are only visible when the yarn is knitted. So always make sure to use the same color batch of yarn for a project.

Maschenfein tip

If you do have to work two balls of the same color but different lots together, knit two rows or rounds with the old ball and two rows with the new ball alternately over a few centimeters at the transition from one ball to the other. In this way, the transition is smooth and the color difference should hardly be noticeable.

By the way:
According to the Textile Labeling Ordinance, manufacturers are not allowed to use the term "merino wool" in the material labeling. You will therefore find the terms "virgin wool" or "wool" there, even if it is fine merino. However, this important information can be found in the product description or very often as an addition to the name of the yarn on the label.

The more you knit, the more often you will want to replace a yarn specified in the pattern with another of your choice. If your gauge with the new yarn matches the gauge given in the pattern, you can start without any problems. You can then determine the amount of yarn you need using the yardage.

Example: The gauge of the new yarn matches

The yarn in the pattern has a meterage of 130 m per 50 g. You will need 7 balls, i.e. 910 m. Your desired yarn has a meterage of 160 m per 50 g. You will need 910 m, which is the equivalent of 5.7 (i.e. 6) balls.

However, it may also be the case that you want to use a yarn of a different weight class for a model. In this case, you would have to recalculate the pattern. First knit a gauge swatch! Then mark all the relevant stitches for your size and convert all the stitches and rows.

Example: Lace yarn replaces bulky yarn

The yarn used in the pattern is in the bulky range with a gauge of 14 stitches per 10 cm, knitted with 6.0 mm needles. You would like to knit the model in a lace yarn and give it a completely new character. Your gauge is 34 stitches per 10 cm with 2.25 mm needles. The ratio of the number of new stitches to the number of old stitches is 34 : 14, which corresponds to a factor of 2.4.
is therefore multiplied by 2.4. Proceed in the same way when converting the rows.

The subsequent hand knitting yarn is produced by spinning the starting fibers. The way in which the fibers are processed, twisted together and drawn has a significant effect on the structure of the yarn. Whether a yarn is lightly or heavily twisted, has a warp construction or consists of brushed fibers has an effect on the stitch definition and feel of the knitted piece. You can often recognize the strength of the twist and the elasticity of a yarn directly from the ball of yarn. Think about what you want to use the yarn for. Is it going to be a business cardigan or a cozy jacket for at home, do you want to knit a firm stand-up collar or a loose, flowing, supple turtleneck?
The structure also determines whether patterns (if there are to be any) will be easily recognizable. The more complex the structure of the yarn, the simpler the pattern should be!

Wicked yarns are single-threaded and are not twisted again. During the spinning process, they are given exactly the right and sufficient "twist" so that the yarn does not break, but also does not twist and warp further or twist itself.

Highly twisted yarns are created when threads are processed with many twists. The more twists a yarn has undergone during processing, the more tear-resistant it is in the end, but also the smaller its volume and the firmer and harder it feels.

Conversely, lightly twisted yarns are softer, looser and fluffier, but also more prone to tearing.

Multiple twisted yarns are created when several threads are twisted together again. We often find 2-, 3- or 4-ply twisted yarns. Sock wool can even be 4-ply, 6-ply or 8-ply twisted.

Cable or knitting fleece yarns already look like a cord.

Warp yarns consist of interwoven threads.

Textured yarns are made from threads of different thicknesses that are artistically combined with each other.

Slub yarns are created when threads are twisted together under different tensions so that small slubs form in the thread.

Bouclé yarns are similar to slub yarns, except that the tension varies so much when the threads are twisted that one of the threads continuously forms loops. If these loops are brushed open, the result is a brushed yarn. This is very difficult to unravel. Fine patterns are difficult to recognize because the stitch definition does not stand out clearly. For
Brushed yarns are therefore unsuitable for plaits and other intricate patterns.

Tweed yarns have an irregular structure with knots usually twisted in a different color. They are traditionally used for traditional costume clothing. Elaborate patterns knitted in tweed yarn are not very visible

Fibers are spun into threads and threads are twisted or twisted into yarns. A very thin yarn can consist of many individual threads and a very heavy yarn of just one thread. The yarn weight naturally determines how heavy and strong the knitted piece will be later, but also determines which needle size you can use for the work.

In English pattern you will often read terms such as DK Yarn, Worsted Yarn or Fingering, a classification that is very clear and concise. In German we do not know such precise terms. We speak of heavy or thin yarn and at most use the term "sock yarn".

The English classifications are therefore now increasingly to be found on our labels. Nevertheless, in German-speaking countries, the strength of a yarn is often still defined simply on the basis of the meterage. The meterage is the length in meters in relation to a fixed weight (usually 50 or 100 g). A very long thread at 50 g must generally be much thinner than a short thread of the same weight.

However, depending on the material and twisting, two yarns with identical running lengths can also have different thicknesses. For example, let's compare a cotton yarn, whose fibers are already relatively heavy, with an angora yarn, whose fibers are very airy and light. Angora is therefore much lighter than cotton. With the same meterage, based on the same weight, it will therefore be significantly
heavier than a cotton yarn.

These thoughts play a role when you want to replace a yarn for a project because you either don't like the suggested starting yarn, it is not available for you or because you have discovered your dream color in another yarn. If you do not want to convert the pattern you want to work from, your yarn should be the same gauge as the yarn in the pattern. Otherwise the knitted piece will not fit you later.

Since we now know that two yarns can have the same meterage but different thicknesses, the mere information about the meterage is only of limited use to us when replacing the yarn in a pattern.

The "Standard Yarn Weight System" therefore does not classify the yarns according to their running lengths, but according to their stitch samples. For each yarn weight, a stitch count range to 10 cm is given as well as the recommended needle size range.

Yarns in the areas marked "fine" produce a much finer knitted fabric than yarns in the higher "bulky" areas. You can recognize this by the fact that significantly more stitches have to be knitted for the same distance within the "fine" categories than in the "bulky" categories.

As long as you stay within one classification level, yarns can be replaced relatively easily. However, if you change to another area, you will probably have to recalculate the pattern accordingly to achieve the right size.

By the way:

The "Lace" category with needle sizes below 2.25mm has the particularity that yarns in this range are often intentionally knitted on heavier needles than indicated in the table in order to bring out special lace patterns.

Double Knitting Weight (DK) is merely an English-language classification for category 3 and does not mean that these yarns are knitted with two threads.

Man-made fibers are differentiated according to whether the fibers are produced artificially from natural substances (artificial cellulose fibers) or whether they are actually produced purely chemically.

Man-made fibers made from natural substances find their raw material in the cellulose of wood, in this case mainly spruce and beech wood. Well-known cellulose fibers are viscose and modal.

For man-made fibers made from synthetic substances, the raw material must first be chemically produced from coal, crude oil and natural gas. You will find them on the market under the names nylon, polyester and acrylic. Synthetic fibers are an inexpensive alternative to the more expensive natural fibers and are therefore often added to yarns. They can also have a stabilizing effect on all more delicate and tear-prone yarns.

As with animal fibers, there are many differences between plant fibers, including whether they are seed fibers (e.g. cotton) or bast or stalk fibers (e.g. linen).

Linen

Linen fibers are found in bundles in the stems of the flax plant. Linen yarns are extremely robust (even more robust than cotton!) and really durable. They are particularly suitable for summer tops with a light drape. However, as linen yarns are inelastic, i.e. they wear out, they should not be used for garments with an accentuated shape.
Other better known bast fibers are hemp, jute, ramie and bamboo.

Cotton

Cotton fibers are obtained from the seed hairs of the cotton plant. Cotton is also rather inelastic and prone to stretching too much and appearing a little "baggy" as a garment. As cotton produces a particularly clear stitch definition, it is preferred for crochet work.

Mercerized yarns

Cotton or linen yarns can be treated with a caustic soda solution during the manufacturing process, i.e. mercerized. This makes them rounder and smoother and gives the yarn a (wash-resistant!) sheen and strength. Mercerized cotton yarns are very pleasant to wear on the skin.

First of all, it should be noted that pilling is not a sign of poor quality. Rather, with (natural) yarns it depends on how the yarn was spun. Loosely twisted yarns tend to "lose" fibers, which in turn form pills. And - another thing to remember - knitwear is a "commodity". With good care, they can last a long time, but like any other item of clothing, they will wear out to a greater or lesser extent over time depending on use.

Now for the care: Our team's main experience has been with wool combs. This is a good way to remove pilling. But according to our logic, you still remove intact fibers just as you would with plucking - even if not to the same extent. Our favorite pieces, on which we have already used the wool comb several times and sometimes only plucked off pills, are still easy to wear, even if you can at least see a little how much they have been worn 😉.

Electric shavers also fulfill their purpose and have their justification. The advantage here: You only shave off the nodules and do not remove any intact fibers. But (!) we would not use it to care for knitted items with fleece. Because then you would shave off the mohair as well and of course you don't want that. Our experience here is that knitted pieces with multiple threads are less prone to pilling. If you want to freshen them up, we would use a mohair brush. We have also had good experiences with a wool comb.

For us, the following is decisive: We test wool combs and the like in an inconspicuous place. This gives us a good impression of whether the little helper we are aiming for works well or whether we should switch to something else.

Superwash is a special method used to treat wool so that it can be machine washed at higher temperatures. Untreated wool fibers shrink at higher temperatures because the heat destroys the protein structures of the fibers.
In the superwash process, the naturally protruding wool fibers are removed with an acid bath and chlorine. A synthetic layer is then applied on top. This gives the yarns a very smooth surface.

Even if superwash-treated wool is suitable for cleaning in the washing machine, you should wash it with wool detergent on the wool program. Most superwash-treated yarns can be washed at up to 30°C. But here too, you should test the wool in your machine. Every washing machine washes differently and so we cannot give any general washing recommendations for superwash-treated yarns either. The following applies to every machine: As with untreated wool yarn, you should not use fabric softener or tumble dry the laundry.
Superwash wool is ideal for everyday knitwear that needs to be washed frequently. Note, however, that some of the special characteristics of wool, including the insulating and absorbent effect, deteriorate if the fibers are coated with plastic.

However, there are now also some more sustainable ways of treating wool so that it has the characteristics of superwash.

Colloquially, all yarns are commonly summarized under the term "wool". Strictly speaking, however, it only describes a sub-category of knitting yarns, namely those whose underlying fibers have their origin in the fur of sheep. In a broader sense, this group also includes hair from the fur of other mammals such as alpacas, goats, camels or rabbits.

Sheep's wool

Sheep are one of the most important sources of wool. However, many knitters are not aware of the fact that there are well over 200 different breeds of sheep, which have naturally adapted to the respective climatic conditions of their habitat. Sheep coats can therefore vary greatly. And as different as some of the animals look, the yarns that are later spun from their wool are just as different.

Characteristics of sheep's wool

Elasticity: Wool has a natural elasticity. Knitwear retains its original shape, does not wear out and does not sag so quickly.
Susceptibility to felting: Depending on the breed of its supplier, wool has many to very many scales that protect the inside of the fibers. These scales are the reason why wool can felt quickly. The natural felting process starts when fibers swell and the scales become entangled. This can be desirable, for example for non-slip home accessories or windproof clothing.
Scratchiness: Wool can scratch due to the scales on the fibers. Scratchiness is largely dependent on the length and fineness of the hairs. The finer they are, the less scratchy the finished knitted item will be.

Superwash

You can also find so-called "superwash yarns" at Maschenfein. These are made from fibers whose scales have been removed. This prevents the natural felting process and the yarns can also be washed at higher temperatures without any problems. Superwash-treated wool has a different feel and is less elastic due to the treatment, meaning that it may be more likely to wear out.

The finest wool from sheep is from merino sheep, but here too the fibers differ depending on the climate zone. There are Australian merino sheep, South American merino sheep and also German merino sheep. The latter are a little out of the ordinary, as the fibers of their wool are less fine than those of the other two breeds, which may simply be due to the harsh climate here in Germany. This is ultimately also the reason why merino yarn from German animals is less soft and cozy than other merino yarns.

Superfine, fine. lambswool

As with all animal fibers, the fineness depends on the age of the animal. Young animals have a much finer and less scratchy coat. This is why manufacturers usually explicitly state on the label if the fibers are from very young animals or wool from their first shearing. This is indicated by additions such as "superfine", "fine" or "lambswool".

The wool of the Icelandic sheep is a specialty. It consists of two types of fibers: the very coarse, long top coat and the undercoat. Although these fibers can be easily separated, they are often spun together on purpose to give the yarns their typical "Icelandic" character. The long fibers contribute to the fact that Icelandic sweaters are very robust. They can be worn in all weathers for working outside in nature and can last for several generations. But it is precisely these long fibers that make the wool scratchy, and not everyone likes that feeling.

Virgin wool

Virgin wool refers to new wool obtained from living animals. In contrast, pulled wool is recycled wool from older wool stocks.

Wool from goats

Goats are another well-known source of wool. The goat species we knitters are most familiar with is the cashmere goat, from whose undercoat cashmere fibers are obtained, as well as the Angora goat, whose fur is processed into mohair yarns.

Cashmere (cashmere goat)
Cashmere is obtained from the pure undercoat of the cashmere goat, which lives in the East Indies, China or the Himalayas. The undercoat is well protected by the coarser, overlying fur and therefore consists of particularly soft, almost silky and fine fibers. Cashmere is very valuable, as a cashmere goat only produces around 100 g of this fiber per year. This is why we often find yarns with a very low cashmere content in wool stores. This makes the finished knitted item
softer than pure sheep's wool. As cashmere is particularly soft, it is easy to wear next to the skin. However, it is a little more difficult to care for. It should also be noted that cashmere is very warming.

Mohair (Angora goat)
Mohair is also obtained from the fur of a goat, namely the Angora goat. The thought of mohair often conjures up the image of a fluffy, brushed yarn. In fact, almost every major manufacturer has a (mostly) brushed mohair in its range. It is always mixed with other fibers, as it is extremely smooth and inelastic when processed on its own, i.e. it does not retain its shape very well. Sheep's wool and/or silk are often added. Mohair often divides knitters. Some love it, others don't like wearing it on their skin at all. The softness of the fibers in Angora goats varies greatly depending on the age of the animals. Kid mohair is the fiber of very young animals - and is almost comparable to cashmere in its softness. The manufacturing process and the proportion of other fibers can also have a strong influence on the yarn and the scratchy feel. So try out mohair yarns from different price ranges to get a reliable picture of this fiber.

Interesting facts about mohair

• Mohair is warmer and firmer than wool.
• The mohair fibers are only slightly crimped and have few, but larger and flatter scales. The yarns do not felt, but often fluff.
• Mohair alone is very inelastic and would quickly lose its shape. Mohair yarns therefore require other fibers (such as wool) to give the knitted products more dimensional stability
• Angora goats provide us with mohair fibers. However, if you read the term "angora" on a banderole, the fibers come from an angora rabbit.

Rabbit

The fur of Angora rabbits consists of white and extremely light fibres, which are characterized by very many and highly airy cell spaces. These cell spaces insulate heat extremely effectively. Angora wool is eight times warmer than sheep's wool and is therefore particularly suitable for very, very warm garments. Really thin and fine garments made from angora also keep you warmer. This material is not suitable for heavy, bulky patterns.
Only around 200 g of fiber can be obtained per rabbit per year, which is why these yarns are in the upper price range. Depending on the quality of production, yarn made from angora fibers can be very fluffy. You should test the material using small samples before starting a project. As the fibers are also very smooth and slippery, metal needles are not suitable for knitting.

Camel and camel species

Alpacas and llamas produce extremely fine and soft wool, the fibers are individually very long, light and fine. Compared to sheep's wool, the fibers of camel and alpaca wool also have far fewer scales, which is why knitted items made from alpaca are very soft and can be worn well against the skin. They also do not felt as quickly. However, the fibers are also less elastic, which means that knitwear made from pure alpaca can wear out quickly and badly.

Fine stitch tip

Alpacas do not excrete wool wax (lanolin), which accumulates in the fur of sheep. For people with lanolin intolerance, this material is therefore a good alternative to yarns made from sheep's wool.

The "real" camel yarn, which is mainly made from the fur of the two-humped camel, also comes close to merino or even cashmere yarns in terms of its softness if it is obtained from the animal's undercoat. Like alpaca yarn, it felts less quickly, but is also less elastic. As camel wool is more difficult to bleach, camel yarns are usually found in muted colors.

Other animal fibers

There is a multitude of other interesting yarns of animal
origin.
The yak is a type of cattle with an extremely dense coat. If you think of a picture of a cow, you inevitably expect the yarn made from its hair to be very firm and scratchy. However, under the top coat of the yak is also the undercoat, whose fibers (in younger animals) can be even finer than those of the alpaca coat.
If you enjoy a wide variety of materials, it is a good idea to test them using small samples and also try out yarns made from the fibers of vicuñas or musk oxen and bison.

Silk

Silk fiber plays a special role in the field of animal fibers, as it consists of a single, purely natural continuous fiber. This in turn makes textiles made from high-quality silk expensive, as the production process is very time-consuming. The highest quality silk is mulberry silk. Caterpillars hatch from the 300 to 400 eggs of a butterfly and feed on the leaves of a mulberry tree. These caterpillars then spin themselves into a cocoon made of an uninterrupted silk thread up to 3000 meters long.
continuous silk thread.

Silk yarns are very strong and not very elastic. They are therefore not suitable for snug-fitting cuffs or garments that must not wear out. The nature of the yarn also means that the stitch definition is clearly accentuated and irregularities are clearly visible, even with strong patterns.
patterns are clearly recognizable. As silk is very slippery, special attention should also be paid to the choice of needles for this yarn.

The more you knit, the more often you will want to replace a yarn specified in the pattern with another of your choice. If your gauge with the new yarn matches the gauge given in the pattern, you can start without any problems. You can then determine the amount of yarn you need using the yardage.

Example: The gauge of the new yarn matches

The yarn in the pattern has a meterage of 130 m per 50 g. You will need 7 balls, i.e. 910 m. Your desired yarn has a meterage of 160 m per 50 g. You will need 910 m, which is the equivalent of 5.7 (i.e. 6) balls.

However, it may also be the case that you want to use a yarn of a different weight class for a model. In this case, you would have to recalculate the pattern. First knit a gauge swatch! Then mark all the relevant stitches for your size and convert all the stitches and rows.

Example: Lace yarn replaces bulky yarn

The yarn used in the pattern is in the bulky range with a gauge of 14 stitches per 10 cm, knitted with 6.0 mm needles. You would like to knit the model in a lace yarn and give it a completely new character. Your gauge is 34 stitches per 10 cm with 2.25 mm needles. The ratio of the number of new stitches to the number of old stitches is 34 : 14, which corresponds to a factor of 2.4.
is therefore multiplied by 2.4. Proceed in the same way when converting the rows.

Not necessarily. But it's also easier to eat when you have a fork and knife at hand 😉 "Only one reel" has the advantage that you can unwind the skein properly. You still have to wind the ball yourself then. "Only one winder" works if you have someone to help you, who either operates the winder while you hold the skein yourself or who plays the "skein holder". Because with a winder and the back of a chair as a holder for the rope, it's very difficult.

Products for wrapping

In addition to the name of the yarn, the manufacturer provides you with additional information on the label. The most important information is the material composition and the meterage, which refers to the specified weight of the ball. If you want to compare the running lengths of two balls of yarn, make sure you do this in relation to the same weight. You may need to use the rule of three to convert the information for one of the yarns.

The recommended needle size and the specified gauge should be seen as a guide to the tension or density under which the yarn knits up best. However, the needle size you need to achieve this result is another matter and must be tried out. The color number indicates the shade of the corresponding yarn collection. The lot number indicates the dye bath from which this ball of yarn originates. As only a certain amount of yarn fits into a single dye bath during the dyeing process, this information is important for processing the yarn later on. Although the dye baths for the same color are always produced in exactly the same way, the individual baths can still differ slightly from one another. Even white or beige yarns can have differences, which you will only see when the yarn is knitted. So always make sure to use the same color batch of yarn for a project.

For your first gauge swatch, select the needle size recommended in the pattern or on the label. Cast on at least 10 stitches more than indicated for 10 cm and knit about 12 to 14 cm in the specified pattern.
Knit about 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (always knit stitches) so that the edges do not curl unnecessarily. You can also knit 2 to 4 rows of garter stitch for the top and bottom edges. This way, the gauge will lie flat on the table later. Make a note of all the details and attach them to your swatch. After just a few days, you may have forgotten the most important details.

Example

The pattern give 20 stitches and 33 rows on 3.0 mm needles in stockinette stitch. Choose 3.0 mm needles and cast on 30 stitches. Then knit about 12 to 14 cm in stockinette stitch and then bind off the piece loosely.

As the material of the needles also has a direct effect on the weight and slipperiness of the stitches, the same yarn can also be knitted with different needle materials at different strengths.
with different needle materials. This therefore also affects the gauge. When preparing for a project, always knit your gauge swatch with the needles you intend to use later.

Fine stitch tip

For a project in rounds, you should also knit the gauge swatch in rounds to obtain a reliable value. Many knitters work in rounds compared to rows with a different yarn tension, which changes the knitting strength. You can also work stitch samples for jacquard patterns in the round. Alternatively, always knit in rows, never turn the work, but push the stitches back to the other end of the needles.

Wash, stretch and steam the gauge

Before you "read" the gauge swatch, wash or steam it in the same way as you will later care for the finished knitted piece. Only then can you measure correctly. Otherwise, it is possible that the piece will fit immediately after casting off, but will no longer fit after the first hand wash.

Reading the gauge correctly

To determine the number of stitches in your gauge, first lay a ruler or needle gauge horizontally. To make it easier, you can mark the stitches at 0 cm and 10 cm. Now count the stitches over this distance.

You determine the rows in the same way, except that you place the ruler vertically. Mark the stitches at 0 cm and 10 cm and count the rows in between. Now compare the measurements you have taken with the information in the pattern. Every knitter works with different yarn tensions. This has an enormous influence on the strength of the knitted stitches.

Let's assume that the pattern specify 21 stitches per 10 cm using 3.5 mm needles, but your gauge is 22 stitches. So you are obviously knitting tighter than the designer, because you get more stitches per 10 cm. Is this a small enough difference to ignore?

We will continue to assume that this is a sweater whose circumference will be knitted later with 189 stitches. In the pattern, 189 stitches result in a circumference of 90 cm. In your case, however, 189 stitches would logically mean a circumference of 86 cm. Your sweater will therefore be 4 cm tighter, which is an enormous deviation, especially for figure-hugging patterns!

Keep reminding yourselves: If you knit a sweater together in the same size with the same needle size, these sweaters can still turn out one or two sizes differently, as each of you knits differently. The gauge swatch helps you to avoid such unwanted surprises.

What to do if the number of stitches differs?

f your stitch and row numbers do not match the pattern
match, adjust the needle size. Half a
needle size will change your gauge by about one stitch.
change. If the gauge is knitted too tightly, use

Use slightly heavier needles. If you have knitted too loosely, choose

If your stitch and row numbers do not match the pattern, adjust the needle size. Half a needle size will change your gauge by about one stitch. If your gauge is too tight, use slightly heavier needles. If you have knitted too loosely, choose thinner needles. In the example described above, you would now use a 4.0 mm needle and knit another gauge.
knit another gauge.

What to do if the number of rows differs?

If the specified stitch density does not match your stitch

sample matches, but you have measured to 10 cm a
deviating
number of rows, you may have to make adjustments to the
worst case scenario, you will have to make adjustments to the pattern.
In most cases, however, there are no absolute row numbers in the

pattern, but rather heights given in centimeters. So here is a deviation of the stitches

If the specified stitch density matches your gauge but you knit a different number of rows measured to 10 cm, you may have to make adjustments to the pattern.
In most cases, however, there are no absolute row numbers in the pattern, but rather heights given in centimeters. A deviation in the gauge is therefore not too serious, as you can correct the height by adding or subtracting a few rows. However, bear in mind that you may need more yarn if you knit more rows to achieve the desired height.

This gauge was knitted with one yarn but with needles of different sizes. The holes created by the yarn overs provide information about the respective needle size.

You can find the right needles in the right size with the help of the gauge. Finally, you will gain all the important information about the subsequent care of your finished knitted item. Stitch samples are full of valuable information that you should not miss out on.

Suitable needle size

Each knitting pattern specifies a needle size for the project and the material to be knitted. You will also find the recommended needle size for the corresponding yarn on most banderoles. This information is provided by the designer or manufacturer as a hint, which you can use as a guide, but is not too relevant for you.

Much more important is the indication of the gauge in each pattern. The gauge tells you how many stitches and rows you need to cast on an area of 10 x 10 cm, for example, in order to complete the project exactly to the calculated size. Whether you use the needle size suggested in the pattern or
one or two needle sizes higher or lower depends on how tightly you knit compared to the designer. You can find this out using your own gauge swatch.

Characteristics of the material

If you are knitting a material for the first time, the stitch test will help you to recognize the special features of the yarn. Is it a very tightly twisted yarn or a cable yarn with needle ends that are too sharp and get caught in the yarn? The gauge provides you with information about such important details. Based on this, you can decide whether you really want to use the yarn and determine whether you have the right needles available.

Comfort and effect of the future knitted garment

The swatch will also tell you how comfortable the fabric is to wear and the effect of patterns and color combinations. Does the material feel cozy or scratchy? Is it elastic or does it wear out even on small areas? Are design aspects such as cables or lace patterns clearly visible - or do they possibly lose expression due to the type of twisting or other characteristics of the material? How and in what sequence do colors look best when knitted together?

The right care

You should also wash every gauge. This will help you determine the best way to care for the fabric before you have finished the whole project. How does the material react to hand washing? Can the finished sweater be easily cleaned in the washing machine? A small swatch is knitted quickly, and it doesn't matter
It doesn't matter if we find that the colors run, for example. But what if this happens to you with a finished project?

Replacing yarns and converting the gauge

If you want to plan projects according to pattern with alternative yarns, you will need a gauge swatch to find out whether you can use the yarn without having to convert the information in the gauge swatch. If conversions are necessary (which is quite possible for advanced knitters), you will also need the information from your gauge swatch.

Knitting stitch samples ensures that ...

• ...that the project really fits perfectly in the end,
• ...that you like the knitted fabric in the end,
• ...that you actually enjoy knitting with the yarn.

Stitch samples are fun to make and provide a treasure trove of information afterwards. Keep your samples well labeled. How wonderful it is to browse through all the stitch samples later!

• See also Makerist video course "The basics of the stitch test ": https://www.makerist.de/courses/das-1×1-der-maschenproben

The way a knitting pattern or even just a knitting pattern is described can vary greatly depending on the designer. There are pattern with few abbreviations and very detailed texts. Or those that contain virtually no explanatory text, but only knitting charts. Some designers structure their pattern very logically and mathematically by noting the sequence of stitch types row by row. In any case, get into the habit of reading knitting pattern from start to finish before you cast on your first stitches.

Gauge and needle size

Each knitting pattern contains information on needle size and gauge. You can use the former as a guide when knitting your own gauge swatch. Then compare your knitted gauge with the gauge given in the pattern to decide whether you need to adjust the needle size. You can find out more here [LINK].

Sizes

Knitting pattern for garments usually specify several sizes. The smallest size is listed first, followed by the next sizes in ascending order, usually in brackets.
This order is also consistently followed in the rest of the description, so that the pattern are usually summarized for all sizes. For example, if you knit size M in an pattern for sizes S, (M, L), all further information for size M will always be in second place in this description. According to the pattern "cast on 3 (5, 8) stitches", you would cast on 5 stitches for size M in our example. If it continued to say "repeat these 4 rows 0 (0, 1) more times", you would not knit a repeat.

It is easiest to mark the size to be knitted in all relevant places in the pattern right at the beginning so that there is no confusion later when knitting.
For sweaters and cardigans, the chest circumference is usually given. This can either be the actual chest circumference measured on the body or the circumference measured on the finished garment. It is important to pay attention to such differences when reading the pattern.
Another important measurement concerns the length of a garment. However, adjusting the length to your desired measurements is usually less difficult.

Note: There are no "normal measurements". Advanced knitters will increasingly vary the knitting pattern and adapt them as precisely as possible to their own body measurements.

Ease" positive ease

Garments are rarely designed to fit the body. As a rule, so-called "comfort allowances" are added. For body-hugging projects, these are only a few centimetres, but for more casual styles up to "oversize" it can be a good 10 to 15 centimetres. To determine the most comfortable size for you personally, measure one or two of your favorite pieces from your closet and compare these measurements with your own body measurements.
If a particularly tight-fitting garment is to be knitted from a stretchy material, this addition may even be negative and more of a deduction: The project is created slightly smaller to take account of the stretchy wool and the desired figure-hugging fit from the outset.

Reading knitting fonts and symbols

More difficult knitting pattern with lace, cable or similar pattern sequences are often shown as knitting charts. A legend with the symbols used is included with every knitting pattern. Charts are usually structured as follows:

The rows on the front are numbered on the right and are read from right to left. The rows on the back are numbered on the left and are read from left to right. Repeat sets are usually highlighted in color. The stitches outside the repeating sets represent the rest of the row.

Counting pattern for color samples

If you are knitting multi-colored patterns, you will usually find a counting pattern in the pattern that visually represents the pattern. Each box stands for a stitch, each row for a knitted row or round. If you are knitting in rows, the right side rows are read from right to left and the back rows from left to right.

Abbreviations

The abbreviations used in a knitting pattern are usually explained in an overview at the end or beginning of the pattern. You can find a translation table of the most common English abbreviations and terms here as a free download.
The same applies here: Familiarize yourself thoroughly with abbreviations and other information in the pattern before you start. This will avoid misunderstandings and annoying mistakes.

The diameter of a knitting needle is known as the needle size. This depends on the wool to be knitted or on the desired result. In the best case scenario, the needle size is engraved on the needle itself. Often, however, the size is simply printed on the needle, which can fade or rub off over time. In this case, the needle size helps to determine the size of the needle.

The needle ends can be slightly rounded or pointed. Very pointed needles are suitable for filigree lace and lace patterns, but are completely unsuitable for lightly twisted yarns or warp yarns, as they quickly get caught in the thread when knitting. The shape of the needles varies from round to flat to square. This also influences the knitting strength and the strain on the hand muscles, but is ultimately a matter of taste.

The market for knitting accessories is huge. Not all accessories are necessary, but many are very practical, make working on your knitting projects easier and also look pretty.

A needle gauge allows you to determine the needle size if it is not (or no longer) visible on the needle. It is best to purchase one with an additional unit of measurement in cm and inches to measure your stitch samples.

You will need a tape measure to take body measurements and measure the progress of your project if the pattern require it.

Sharp needlework scissors are a must.

Stitch markers are available in many different versions. Closed stitch markers are used to hang them between two stitches on the needle. They then mark the beginning of a round or the beginning or end of a pattern set, for example. Lockable stitch markers can be opened like safety pins. If required, they can also be attached directly to stitches, e.g. to make it easier to count rows or to mark the front of a knitted piece. The diameter and weight of the stitch markers vary to suit the different needle sizes. You can also simply use a loop of a different colored thread for marking.

You will need stitch latchers to rest stitches if you are going to continue working with them at a later date but need the knitting needles in the meantime. A simple safety pin is sufficient for a few stitches, for longer stitches you can use extra-large stitch raps. Alternatively, pull a thread through the stitches and knot it.

Row counters make it easier to keep track when knitting many rows.

Needle caps prevent the stitches from slipping down and protect the needle tips from damage in the project bag. Some are designed in such a way that they can hold several needles of a needle set together.

Stitch fasteners are clamped onto the rope to prevent stitches from slipping.

Cable needles, also known as auxiliary needles, are available in various sizes and shapes. They are used for knitting cable patterns in which stitches are temporarily placed in front of or behind the work before they are processed further. You can also use the free needle of a set of needles for this step.

A knitting ring can be helpful for holding several threads when knitting multi-colored patterns.

Wool needles are special sewing needles with rounded points. They are used for sewing the ends of the yarn and for sewing several knitted pieces together. You use different thicknesses of wool needles for different yarn thicknesses.

You can use crochet hooks to pick up stitches, catch dropped stitches and add crochet edges to knitted pieces. Just like knitting needles, crochet hooks are available in a wide variety of shapes and materials.

Use a mohair brush to freshen up worn clothing made from brushed yarns.

You can use a cashmere comb or a lint remover to gently remove nodules and lint from your knitwear.

Reels and wool winders make it easier to wind yarns that you have bought as skeins.

Tensioning accessories include tensioning mats, wires, needles and combs. Make sure that materials that come into contact with the yarn are rustproof!

Knitting needles come in a wide variety of shapes and thicknesses as well as in a multitude of different materials, colors and points. Over time, you will develop certain preferences and also realize that not every needle goes with every yarn. When selecting needle material and size, the yarn you use always plays a role. The type of needle, on the other hand, is also determined by the knitting project itself.

Circular knitting needles consist of two tips connected by a rope. Regardless of the term "circular knitting needles", they can be used to knit stitches in both rounds and rows. If you don't want to limit yourself specifically to sock knitting, circular knitting needles are probably the most important tool. Circular knitting needles vary in the length of the cable, which determines the radius of circular knitted pieces to a certain extent. For knitting hats, a length of 30 cm can be practical, but in this case the tips should be
However, the tips should be extra short so as not to restrict the knitting movement too much. For larger projects than hats, your circular knitting needles should have a length of at least 40 cm measured from tip to tip for knitting comfort.

Needle systems are recommended if you want to knit more than just one project. In this case, do not buy fixed circular knitting needles in several lengths and sizes, but buy ropes and needle points that you can combine as you wish. Needle systems also come in different shapes, points, materials and lengths. There are systems for screwing on and systems for clicking the needles onto the rope.

Needle sets/stocking knitting needles consist of four to six knitting needles with a point at both ends. As the needles can be knitted from both sides, they are suitable for knitting in the round with a small radius. Examples of applications include sleeves, socks, gloves and hats. For knitting in the round, the stitches are then distributed over three to five needles and knitted in the round with a free needle. Needle sets are also available in all conceivable materials and thicknesses. The length of the needles varies between 10 and 30 cm. For socks, you will generally use 20 cm long needles, while knitting mittens is much easier with even shorter needles of 10 to 15 cm.

Jacket needles have a needle point at one end and a stopper at the other to prevent stitches from slipping down. Jacket needles are available as a fixed version or as so-called "flex needles", which work in the same way, except that they have a rope with a stopper at one end. Jacket needles have gone a little out of fashion, as circular needles are just as good for knitting larger pieces and the weight of the stitches on circular needles is distributed evenly over both needles thanks to the rope connection.

Knitting needle materials

The market for knitting needles offers us a wide range of different needle materials.It is a good idea to start by buying individual needle tips before investing in a whole set. Needle sizes from 3 to 5 are practical, for example, as these are used in many projects and can be available in multiples. You will notice that it may well depend on the yarn itself as to which needle material you want to use. The pleasure of knitting itself is closely linked to the feel of the yarn. Depending on the needle material, the knitting needles may feel cold or warm, heavier or lighter. The stitches also slip more or less. Depending on whether you knit very tightly or very loosely anyway, you may also have different preferences with regard to the material.

Knitting needles are traditionally made of metal. Brass needles are hollow on the inside and therefore lighter, whereas aluminum needles are solid and therefore somewhat firmer and heavier in the hand. Metal needles are generally rather slippery and the stitches slide down quickly. They are therefore not so suitable for particularly smooth and silky yarns. Carbon fiber needles with nickel-plated brass points are very light, smooth and break-resistant, but at the same time not quite as slippery as metal needles.

Wood is a very warm material and much easier on the joints when knitting. How slippery or firm the stitches move on it depends on how the wood itself has been treated (waxed or varnished). While birch wood is much cheaper than precious woods, the latter are much harder and more resistant to breakage. Needles made from olive wood have a particularly beautiful grain.
Bamboo needles give many knitters a very pleasant knitting feeling. The needles feel warm in the hand and are less slippery than metal needles. However, thin bamboo needles can warp more easily.

Plastic knitting needles are particularly popular for heavier yarns because these needles are still nice and light even in the upper needle sizes. Acrylic needles tend to be blunt and the stitches do not slip as easily as with metal needles.