At the end of the knitting project, all threads that got caught during the work due to color or ball changes must be sewn up. It makes it easier to sew up neatly if these threads are not cut too short after casting on, binding off or changing yarn, but are left at least 15 cm long.

Tip:

With heavier yarns, you can also untwist the individual threads
and then sew them separately.

Different stitches can be used to sew individual knitted pieces together. Use a wool needle and usually scraps of working thread.

Two edges can be sewn together invisibly using the knit stitch. The knit stitch imitates a knitted stitch and can be used on both open and closed edges. Parts that have been joined together in knit stitch look as if they have been knitted in one piece. In other words, almost seamless.

Knit stitch on closed edges

Work the stitch from right to left. At the beginning you stitch
from the back into the center of the lower first stitch. Then insert the needle under the two stitch links of the stitch above on the upper part. Then insert the needle from the top into the middle of the first stitch at the bottom and bring the needle out of the middle of the stitch to the left at the front. Now grab the two stitch legs
of the next stitch above and continue in this way to the left edge.

Stitch on open edges

Insert the needle alternately through the bottom and top of two adjacent stitches by inserting it from the top into the stitch on the right and from the bottom into the stitch on the left. Work from right to left.

You can join side seams neatly with the mattress stitch. The edge stitches disappear when the threads are gently pulled together on the back of the knitted piece. This creates an almost invisible seam.

mattress stitch stockinette stitch

Place the edges of the pieces to be joined next to each other with the right side facing up and use the wool needle to pick up the cross threads of two stitches of the left piece that lie between the edge stitches and the first stitch on the right. The wool needle is then inserted from bottom to top into two cross threads of the stitches on the parallel opposite side. Repeat this process until the end of the edge and gently pull the thread tight at regular intervals.

mattress stitch garter stitch

In garter stitch, the needle alternately inserts right and left from bottom to top. The stitch loops facing upwards are always picked up on the left edge, while the stitch loops facing downwards are picked up on the right edge.

Mattress stitch for other patterns

The mattress stitch can also be used in this way for all other patterns. As it is worked on the right side of the knitted piece, it is always easy to see how it fits into the stitch definition.
stitch definition.

Various stitches can be used to sew individual knitted pieces together. You use a wool needle and usually scraps of working thread.

For the backstitch, the knitted pieces are placed right sides together or pinned.

Always stitch from the back to the front through both parts and then from the front to the back through the exit point of the previous stitch.

Various stitches can be used to sew individual knitted pieces together. You use a wool needle and usually scraps of working thread.

For the overlock stitch, the knitted pieces are placed right sides together or pinned.

The needle is always guided over the edge to the back and pierced through the two parts from behind.

Embroidery can give a plain model that special something. You can embroider patterns, shapes, letters, numbers - there are no limits to your imagination when decorating. But remember that less is often more and don't overload a beautiful knitted piece.

Knit stitch

The stockinette stitches are simply imitated with this stitch or embroidered over in the same shape. To do this, use a yarn that is roughly the same weight as the one used for the knitted piece. This makes the stitches clearly visible, covers the underlying stitches but does not make the knitted piece bulging. The knit stitch can be used for embroidering patterns as well as for correcting color patterns.

The stitch is worked from right to left. Pierce the lower tip of the stitch to be embroidered from back to front. Insert the needle from right to left through both legs of the stitch above.

Then stitch into the last stitch at the bottom tip of the stitch and stitch from the back to the front through the bottom tip of the next stitch to the front.

In this case, the stitch is worked from the bottom up. Proceed according to the same principle: First insert the thread from the back to the front through the lower tip of the stitch.

Then stitch from right to left through the stitch legs above.

Repeat the process on the stitch above.

The thread ends are sewn as discreetly as possible on the back.

You can also work the stitch in the background color to correct small mistakes, e.g. wrongly purled stitches.

Backstitch

Work the back stitch on the front of your piece from right to left. Insert the needle horizontally from right to left under the desired number of stitches.

Then pull the thread through to the front and reinsert the needle one stitch length to the right. Bring the working thread out again one stitch length to the left of the previous exit point.

The backstitch is a straight line.

The backstitch is suitable for decorating with lines on the one hand and for sewing edges together on the other.

Stem stitch

If you want to create curves rather than a straight line, use the stem stitch. Work from right to left ...

... on the front of the knitted piece. The smaller the selected stitch length, the more delicate the lines can be drawn.

Langettenstich

You insert the needle along the edge from the back to the front...

... and catch the thread by passing the needle through the loop from the front.

The distances between the stitches can be varied as desired.
can be varied.

The Langetten stitch is often used to decorate edges, e.g. of blankets. Buttonholes can also be finished with this stitch.

Warp stitch

Insert the needle from the back to the front and then back to the back in the exit point.

Leave a loop on the front side. Push the needle through to the front again and secure this loop.

Repeat these steps. This way you can create a ...

... create a straight or serpentine line of loops.

The stitches in comparison

The stem stitch is similar to the back stitch, but produces slightly heavier lines.
The long stitch is often used to decorate the edges of blankets or to finish buttonholes. However, it can also be used as a decorative element on the knitted fabric.
The chain stitch forms a line of stitches resting on the knitting base.

Knot stitch

Insert the needle through the work from the back to the front. Wrap the thread around the needle as often as you like.

Re-insert at the exit point.

Tighten the knots carefully.

The knotted stitch creates individual small accents on the knitting base. It is also suitable for the center (i.e. for the stamens) of embroidered flowers.

Smock effects

With this technique, you pull knitted ribs together at points to create a cross.

Cut out to the front and ...

... further to the right. Depending on the desired effect, use the same exit and entry points again.

This is how the effect appears on the front of the knitted fabric.

Smocking effects are created when two stitches that are further apart are pulled together with backstitches.

Daisy stitch

Pierce through the center of the desired flower to the front and pierce again at the same point.

Catch the loop with the needle by stitching forward again from the center, one petal length away.

Secure the petal with a small loop and stitch it forward again in the center.

Repeat these steps, ...

... until all the petals are finished.

For the daisy stitch, loops are formed and fastened with small stitches.

The crochet hook can be used to decorate the knitted pieces both on the knitting base and around the edges.

Sl stitches on the knitting base

Similar to embroidery, crochet hooks can be used to create a variety of patterns on the knitting base. Particularly beautiful color effects can be created by crocheting left vertical stitch columns in different colors.

Hold the yarn to be crocheted on behind the piece of knitting and pull a loop through a purl stitch of the piece of knitting with the crochet hook.

Hold this loop on the crochet hook and pull another loop through the next purl stitch. Pull this new loop through the loop on the hook.

Repeat step 2 continuously.

In this way, the slip stitches can also be worked along the edge of the knitted piece. This looks particularly decorative on necklines or blanket edges.

Crochet around with single crochet stitches

Crocheting around with single crochet stitches unifies the edge more than crocheting around with slip stitches. To create slightly wider edges, simply add more crocheted rows or crochet around the edge with double crochets. The same principle can be used to add any crochet edging to the edge of a knitted model.

Fine stitch tip

When crocheting around the curve, simply work more single crochet stitches or slip stitches in the corner to be crocheted around.

Cords and strings complement knitted items such as jackets, dresses, bags and purses.

Twist cord

Cut two or more threads to about three times the desired length of the future cord.

Knot the ends and twist them together under tension.

Do not reduce the tension, hold the center of the threads at the same time and fold the two ends together.

Release the center so that the two strands now automatically twist together. Knot the end.

Knit I-cord cord

Cords can also be knitted with two knitting needles. Simply cast on three to five stitches (or more, depending on the desired weight of the cord).

Knit one row, but do not turn the work, instead push it back to the beginning of the needle and knit in the same direction again. Pull the yarn tight.

Repeat (never turn the work, but always knit in the same direction) until the desired length is reached.

Cords with the knitting shuttle

Pull the starting thread top down through the knitting shuttle (the end of the thread hangs out slightly at the bottom) and wrap the working thread clockwise around one metal hook after the other until all of them are wrapped.

Now place the yarn in front of a hook and lift the loop of yarn on top of it. Continue hook by hook, occasionally pulling the resulting cord further out of the knitting shuttle at the bottom of the hanging yarn

Knot a cord

Knot two threads together.

Form a loop with one thread and pull the other thread through as a loop with your index finger.

Tighten and change the working thread.

Now pull the thread you have just tightened through the newly formed loop and tighten the other thread.

Always alternate the two threads in this way, ...

... until the desired length is reached.

There are knitting yarns that are already decorated with beads or sequins at greater or lesser intervals, which blend into the knitted fabric. You also have the option of threading beads onto the yarn before knitting. This requires a little calculation, as you need to work out how many beads you want to add in the next steps without cutting the yarn.

Note

There are endless variations of beads and sequins. The only condition for using them in knitting is that they have a sufficiently large hole so that they can be stranded onto the desired yarn. However, pay attention to the weight of the beads and the washability of the material.

Beads/sequins with raised stitches

Knit the stitches to the desired position of the bead/sequin, place the yarn in front of the work and position the bead.

Slip the next stitch as for purl knitting. On the back row, position the yarn with the bead/sequin behind the work.

Knitted-in beads/sequins

Knit to the desired position and pull through and position the bead/sequin on the next stitch.

The beads lie diagonally on the knitted stitches, which creates a slightly different look to the previous method.

Tying off with beads/sequins

The beads are knitted in when you cast off.

The edges of knitted pieces can be decorated in this way.

Tassels and fringes are particularly decorative on the edges of blankets, scarves or shawls. Pompoms are often used for hats.

Tassels

Cut a piece of cardboard to the width of the desired length of the tassel and wrap the yarn around it several times.

Then thread the thread through all the loops at the top and knot it together.

Remove the cardboard, cut the wraps cleanly and evenly at the bottom.

Tie the tassel off at the top with a thread.

You can use two threads to sew on the tassel.

Fringes

Cut the desired number of threads and pull them into multiple loops with a crochet hook.

... at the desired position through the edge of the knitted piece.

You can also decorate your fringes by knotting them together as desired.

Pompoms

Pompoms are popular decorations for hats. Cut two circular cardboard discs of the same size with a hole in the middle or use a pompom tool. The larger the hole, the denser the pompom will be later. Wrap the yarn as tightly as possible around the cardboard rings or the tool until you can barely get any yarn through the hole in the middle.

Then use the scissors to cut between the two cardboard rings or the edge of the tool and cut the wraps as evenly as possible all the way around. Wrap a thread of the yarn used very tightly between the two layers and knot it. This secures the now open threads.

Leave this wrapping thread hanging and do not cut it off; you can use it to sew the pompom in place later.

Remove the cardboard rings, loosen the threads and cut them into shape if necessary.

Fine stitch tip

There are practical pompom accessories available in stores that make it easier to make them. However, you can just as easily cut two cardboard discs to the desired size. A fold-out pompom ring was used here.

First of all, it should be noted that pilling is not a sign of poor quality. Rather, with (natural) yarns it depends on how the yarn was spun. Loosely twisted yarns tend to "lose" fibers, which in turn form pills. And - another thing to remember - knitwear is a "commodity". With good care, they can last a long time, but like any other item of clothing, they will wear out to a greater or lesser extent over time depending on use.

Now for the care: Our team's main experience has been with wool combs. This is a good way to remove pilling. But according to our logic, you still remove intact fibers just as you would with plucking - even if not to the same extent. Our favorite pieces, on which we have already used the wool comb several times and sometimes only plucked off pills, are still easy to wear, even if you can at least see a little how much they have been worn 😉.

Electric shavers also fulfill their purpose and have their justification. The advantage here: You only shave off the nodules and do not remove any intact fibers. But (!) we would not use it to care for knitted items with fleece. Because then you would shave off the mohair as well and of course you don't want that. Our experience here is that knitted pieces with multiple threads are less prone to pilling. If you want to freshen them up, we would use a mohair brush. We have also had good experiences with a wool comb.

For us, the following is decisive: We test wool combs and the like in an inconspicuous place. This gives us a good impression of whether the little helper we are aiming for works well or whether we should switch to something else.

Just like carefully selecting the material at the start of the project, optimal care of the knitted item is time well invested in order to enjoy it for as long as possible. Material selection and care are inevitably linked.

There is hardly anything more unpleasant than pulling a sweater or shawl out of the washing machine matted, deformed or discolored after many weeks of work. Proper care of your knitted item is therefore particularly important. Take the care pattern from the yarn label right at the start of the project, if the manufacturer has provided this information, and make a note of them in your project notebook. If there is no information on the label, check the manufacturer's website or always be very careful when washing your knitted garment.

In any case, you should knit a swatch before each project and wash it in the same way as you would like to do with your finished piece later. This is the only way to reliably determine whether the colors are stable and the yarn is sufficiently robust. Don't be squeamish with your swatch and even knit several if necessary to try out different temperatures or washing cycles.

Note
Woolen garments should always be dried lying flat and never in direct sunlight or on a radiator. The heat could damage the material.

Hand wash

If you want to wash one of your knitted projects by hand, first completely dissolve your wool detergent in a hand wash basin filled with lukewarm water. Place the knitted item in the basin and allow it to slowly soak up the water. Later, drain the water and carefully rinse out the detergent with two to three coats of cold water. Then gently squeeze the water out of the knitted item without wringing it. Place the item on a large and preferably heavy towel, roll it up and gently squeeze out the moisture. Then leave the knitted item to dry flat.

IRONING, STEAMING AND STRETCHING

After washing your knitted items, you should always treat them in the same way as you did when completing the project. Shawls with lace patterns in particular should be stretched again.

• Hats: Hats can be blocked damp over a balloon blown to the appropriate circumference for stretching. Make sure that the cuff is not stretched too much, otherwise it can wear out.
• Socks: For socks, there are sock blockers in various sizes. The damp socks are pulled over these. This makes sense especially for lace socks, because often the pattern only really comes into its own when stretched.
• Cloths & Co: Most cloths look quite crumpled after being warped. They only develop their full size, shape and, if necessary, pattern when properly tensioned. Tensioning wires are best suited for this purpose. These are passed through the edge stitches and then fixed in shape with the help of T-nails on tension mats. We do not recommend the use of conventional pins, as they can rust due to moisture and contaminate the knitted fabric. Tension wires are available in stiff and flexible versions. You need the flexible wires if you want to tension circular knitted pieces or semicircular cloths. For smaller cloths or narrow edges, comb needles are also excellent. Tensioning only with T-needles can quickly lead to "cornering", which is why we advise against it for longer edges.
• Sweaters, cardigans and co: If it is not explicitly stated in the pattern, sweaters or cardigans are not dried under full tension, but are simply brushed into shape after washing and dried on the tension mats fixed with comb pins. Drying on the mannequin is also possible. To do this, place the damp garment on the tailor's dummy and fix it in place. Make sure that any overlaps/collars... are fixed accordingly so that the shape is later as it should be. NEVER dry sweaters or cardigans hanging on a hanger or clothesline.