Depending on the pattern, sleeves are knitted in rounds or rows. Sleeves that are knitted in rows must be sewn together at the end. This is often done with the so-called mattress stitch. But you can also crochet them together.

If you knit seamless designs, the sleeves are knitted on directly. Then work in rounds from the shoulder to the cuff.

Of course, you can also knit sleeves with a needle set. Distribute the stitches evenly on four needles and knit the stitches with a fifth needle. Pay special attention to the transitions between the needles.

You can avoid unsightly transitions if you knit sleeves with short circular needles and a very short rope. Here you only need to mark the beginning of the round and then knit continuously in rounds until you reach the cuff.

You can knit sleeves in rounds using the magic loop method. Here you use circular needles with a long rope and divide the stitches into two halves. Knit one half at a time, then move the stitches on the rope and knit the second half.

Alternatively, you can also work with two circular needles: Here you also divide the stitches into two halves and distribute them on the two needles.

For a decrease, two stitches from the front and two stitches from the back are always knitted together. To do this, first place the stitch between two front stitches on an auxiliary needle behind the work.

Then carry out the decrease on the front side (e.g. by knitting together). Then knit the stitch on the auxiliary needle ...

... back onto the left needle and knit the opposite decrease for the back.

Increase inclined to the right

With the front color, knit an increase slanted to the right from the front cross thread: Pick up the cross yarn from the back ...

... and knit off as normal.

Then use the back color to knit an increase from the back cross thread for the back row. To do this, pick up the thread from the back ...

... and then purl off. Then continue working as normal.

Increase tilted to the left

With the front color, knit an increase slanted to the left from the front cross yarn: pick up the cross yarn from the front and knit interlaced.

Then use the back color to knit an increase from the back cross thread for the back. Pick up the cross yarn from the front ...

... and then knit to the wrong side. This way the
increases on the front and back are the same.

The double-face technique is used to knit two front sides in a single operation, using two threads at the same time as when knitting jacquard patterns. The result is a two-ply knitted piece, with the two reverse sides on the inside. This technique can be used to knit multi-colored patterns without creating unsightly backs, as is the case with jacquard patterns.

Notice:

The production of positive-negative patterns is typical of double-face knitting. Similar to jacquard pattern knitting, a counting pattern is also used here, whereby a box represents two stitches
two stitches, namely one stitch on the facing side and one stitch on the wrong side. In the rows to the right, the front knit stitches are knitted in the colors of the counting pattern, the back purl stitches are knitted in the contrasting color.
stitches in the contrasting color. In the back rows, the knit stitches at the front are knitted as a negative image of the counting pattern, as this side becomes the negative of the pattern.

Of course, complicated patterns with special stitch types such as yarn overs etc. can also be worked with the double face.

Knit front and back stitches

Both sides are worked in one row, with the stitches on the front row usually being knit.

... and the stitches on the back side are purled so that the knitting base consists of knit stitches when viewed from both sides.

Meshy tip:

The two-colored Italian cast-on is suitable for double face. To do this, knot the two different colored threads together and perform the Italian cast-on.
one thread is color A and the other color B, so that a knit stitch in color A and a purl stitch in color B appear alternately on the needle.

If stitches are picked up from a side edge of a knitted piece, the special feature mentioned above must be taken into account: Knitted stitches are usually wider than they are high.

If a stitch is picked up from each knitted row, the cast-on row will be too wide. The result would be a ruffle. When knitting on edgings, it is advisable to knit a seam edge first. This results in a single crochet stitch for each row, which is easy to knit out of.

Notice:

The ratio of stitches to rows is approx. 1 : 2 for garter stitch knits and approx. 3 : 4 for plain knits. The exact ratio can be determined using the gauge swatch.

Meshy tip:

If you want to continue knitting in a contrasting color, first cast on the stitches in the previous color and then knit the next row in the contrasting color. This makes the transition more beautiful and less noticeable.

Picking up stitches at rounded edges may be necessary for knitting on neck cuffs or sleeves, for example.

In order to create the most even rounding possible, the pick-ups from the side edge and the horizontal edge are combined with each other. On straight, vertical edges, three new stitches are picked up from every four rows (or according to the ratio you have calculated yourself).
one new stitch is cast on for each previous stitch.

Note:
Even experienced knitters are often not immediately satisfied with the cast-on edges on round necklines. Test out the optimum number of stitches and do not hesitate to cast on stitches for a second attempt.

You can already knit a wide variety of shapes with increases and decreases. Short rows complement the shaping options. However, you may also wish to pick up stitches along one edge of the knitted piece, for example to cast on a facing, collar or sleeves.

Depending on the edge of the knitted piece, the stitches are picked up in different ways and there are a few special features to bear in mind for this process. New stitches can be picked up anywhere around and on the knitted piece: It is possible to pick up stitches from horizontal edges (a cast-on or cast-off edge), vertical edges (the side edges), slanted or rounded edges or even directly from the middle of the knitted fabric. For example:

• Fascia panels for cardigans
• Sleeves
• Necklines
• Leading edges
• Edging of ceilings
• Vests
• Button plackets
• Neck finishes
• Collar
• Borders
• Ruffles
• Patchwork
• Patch pockets

To pick up stitches, work from right to left on the right side of the knitted piece (front).

If you have already knitted a few pieces or stitch samples in stockinette or garter stitch, you will have noticed that stitches are different widths and heights. The relationship between stitch width and stitch height depends on the pattern you are knitting. Stitches knitted in stockinette appear narrower in the knitting pattern than stitches knitted in garter stitch. Cable knit patterns are often very tight, so the ratio of width to height can vary greatly compared to stockinette stitch.

Fine stitch tip

If the knitted fabric shrinks or curls after the stitches have been picked up, regardless of the type of edge, too few or too many stitches have been picked up. In this case, the pick-up interval (i.e. the ratio of the number of picked-up stitches to the edge width) must be adjusted.

Stitches are picked up along the cast-on edge or the cast-off edge in order to continue knitting in the opposite or the same direction. Picking up stitches from the selvedge can also be advantageous if, for example, a seam is required at this point to strengthen the knitted piece.

Picking up stitches on horizontal edges with the same yarn weight in the same pattern is relatively simple, as one new stitch is picked up for each cast-on or cast-off stitch. If you want to knit with a different yarn weight or use a different pattern, you should use stitch samples to calculate how many stitches of the new yarn/pattern correspond to one stitch of the original yarn/pattern.

Work from right to left along the edge by inserting the needle into a stitch below the edge and pulling the new working yarn through as for knit stitches. At the end, turn the work and knit a back row first.

Reminder: If you want to knit in the opposite direction on a cast-on edge later without leaving a visible seam, simply select the provisional cast-on.

Meshy tip:

On long edges, it can be easier to divide up the sections using stitch markers to ensure that the stitches picked up are evenly distributed.

If stitches are not picked up along an edge but on the knitted piece (e.g. for a patch pocket), they are also worked on the front. In this case, it is easiest to first pull the yarn through the knitted fabric with a crochet hook and place it on the knitting needle.

With this method, the hole in the turn is closed by wrapping the working yarn around the next stitch before each turn. Later, this winding is worked over the turning point during knitting.

Shorten with wrap stitches in a knitted row

Slip the next stitch as for purl knitting. Then place the working yarn behind the slipped stitch towards the front and place the stitch back on the left needle. Turn the work and knit back as usual.

If you later knit over the place of the wrap stitch, pass the right needle under the wrap through the stitch on the needle and pull the working yarn through for a knit stitch.

Shorten with wrap stitches in a purl row

Slip the next stitch as for purl knitting (yarn is in front of the work). Then place the working yarn behind the work and the stitch back on the left needle.

Bring the working yarn to the front again. Turn the work and knit back as usual.

If you later knit over the place of the wrap stitch, insert under the original wrap from behind and lift it onto the left needle. Then purl it together with the following stitch.

Norwegian and fair isle patterns are usually knitted in the round, as the patterns are then always visible. Although such jacquard patterns can be worked just as well in back rows with purl stitches, the back rows contain the floats, which make the pattern difficult to recognize and therefore more difficult to knit.

This is why these patterns are often worked in the round. However, as sweaters and jackets have openings (e.g. for necklines or sleeves), so-called standing stitches are first inserted in place of the openings, where the work is later cut open. To prevent the cut edge from unraveling later, it is secured using a sewing machine, needle and thread or a crochet edge.

Secure steek with two crochet edges

Crochet the right side of the middle stitch with the left side of the right side stitch.

... together with the adjacent slip stitch. Make sure you really crochet all the stitch legs of the middle slip stitches. Then crochet to the left of the center ...

... a crochet edge in the same way and turn the work. As soon as both crochet edges have been worked, you can work the middle bars of the center stitch, which ...

... crochet edges are protruding or visible, simply cut them open. One edge is finished by turning it inwards, knitting or sewing on the button placket or sleeve and sewing the edge on the inside using a sewing needle.

Fine stitch tip

Knit the first and last slip stitch purlwise or over two rows each to create a beautiful broken edge. The slip stitches are folded inwards later on.

Knitting short rows means not knitting the row completely, but knitting it shorter. To do this, turn the work before reaching the end of the row and knit the row back again.

The particular challenge when knitting short rows is to incorporate the described twist into the knitted fabric as invisibly as possible.

Short rows are knitted to...

• ... to shape trims on cardigans,
• ... to knit patterns with different heights in horizontal rows (example: garter stitch and plain),
• ... to shape garments, e.g. for bust darts, shoulder slopes or heels (so-called "boomerang heel" in sock knitting).

Knitting the Japanese turning stitch is the most elaborate and at the same time most invisible method of working short rows. The stitch definition is most even with Japanese turning stitches, making this method particularly suitable for areas that will later be very visible.

Japanese shortening in stockinette stitch rows

Knit as usual to the turning point.

Turn the work, attach a stitch marker to the working yarn and slip the first stitch after the turn as for purl knitting (yarn lies in front of the work).

If you later knit over the turning point, the turning stitch is knitted as follows:

Knit the row up to and including the turning stitch. Using the previously attached stitch marker, pick up the loop on the left needle and knit together with the following knit stitch.

Japanese shortening in purl rows

Knit purlwise to the turning point and turn the work.

The first stitch is slipped as for purl knitting. Attach a stitch marker to the working yarn and knit the row back.

If you later knit over the turning stitch, the turning stitch is knitted as follows: Purl the row up to and including the turn stitch. Slip the following stitch as for purl knitting.

Then lift the loop onto the left needle using the previously placed stitch marker, place the stitch you just lifted back onto the left needle and purl together with the loop.

In this method, the stitch of the turning point is worked as a double stitch by lifting it after the turn and pulling it over. The technique is referred to as "German Short Rows" in English-language pattern. It is important to count and work both legs of the stitch as a single stitch later on. This method is particularly suitable for knitted pieces that are subject to wear and tear, as the turn is barely visible even if the knitted fabric is stretched considerably.

After the turn, the first stitch is slipped with the yarn in front of the work as for purl knitting.

Then pull the working yarn back over the right needle and over the stitch just knitted so that both stitch legs are visible.

Then continue the series.

If you later knit over the turning stitches worked in this way, make sure to knit the double stitches created by the turn as one stitch.

Notice:

If the turn is made in a purl row, the first stitch after the turn (in this case a knit stitch) is also simply slipped as for purl knitting (the working yarn is at the front). The working yarn is then pulled back over the stitch.

Buttonholes can be worked using the auxiliary thread technique as explained in the previous section. However, they can also be knitted directly into the rows.

Before you decide on a type of buttonhole, think about how much stress it will be subjected to later on the garment.

Buttonhole with turn-up

The simplest buttonhole method is to knit a yarn over followed by a decrease (to compensate for the newly cast-on stitch). The hole created in this way is relatively narrow (unless the yarn is really heavy...) and therefore only suitable for very small buttons.

Knit to the desired position of the buttonhole and place a yarn over on the right needle.

The following two stitches are knitted together as normal.

In the back row, this yarn over is knitted off as normal.

Horizontal buttonhole over one row

Knit to the desired position of the buttonhole and slip the next stitch with the yarn in front of the work.

Place the yarn behind the work again and * also slip the next stitch. Then pull over the previously slipped stitch. Repeat the steps from * until the buttonhole has reached the desired width.

Turn the work and pick up the number of stitches just cast off plus one more stitch using the cord cast-on.

Turn the work again, slip the first stitch and pull the last slipped stitch over this slipped stitch.

This is what the horizontal buttonhole looks like.

Horizontal buttonhole over two rows

Knit to the desired position of the buttonhole, then cast off the number of stitches required for the width of the buttonhole and finish the row.

On the back row, knit up to the stitches you have just cast off, turn the work once more and pick up the number of stitches you have just cast off using the cord cast-on.

Place the working yarn in front of the work before the last stitch picked up.

Turn the work over and finish the row.

This is what the finished buttonhole looks like over two rows.

Vertical buttonhole

Slip the stitches to the left of the desired position of the buttonhole and continue knitting the part to the right of the buttonhole first.

Then use a newly attached yarn to knit the stitches to the left of the buttonhole over the same number of rows before finally continuing over all stitches.

Oblique buttonhole

The slanted buttonhole is worked in the same way as the vertical buttonhole, but stitches are decreased or increased to the left and right of the buttonhole depending on the desired slope.

Buttonholes can also be reinforced at a later stage, for example by adding decorative stitches to the edge.

Zippers are used for cardigans, cushion covers or bags. The simplest solution is to sew the zipper directly to the edge using a suitable sewing thread and back stitches. Depending on the width of the zipper, it may also be worth securing it on the inside with even stitches to prevent it from folding over.
to prevent folding. When sewing in the zipper, always bear in mind that it is subject to a certain amount of stress and must therefore fit snugly.

Place the piece of knitwear on one side of the zipper close to the teeth and pin it in place with a few safety pins. Work with back stitches and sew the piece of knitwear to the zipper.

Secure the edge of the zipper from the inside with small stitches to prevent it from folding over.

Fine stitch tip

Be sure to wash your zipper and the finished garment separately before sewing it in. It usually shrinks a little during washing. It could
otherwise the zipper might ruffle when you wash the garment later.