When knitting in rows, special attention must be paid to the edge stitches. How these are knitted influences the appearance and elasticity of the edge. On the other hand, it also determines how and whether stitches can be picked up later from this edge.
When reading the pattern, pay attention to whether the designer describes the execution and type of edge stitches in the pattern or whether they have to be cast on additionally. Unless otherwise stated, the edge stitches are usually included in the pattern or in the number of stitches stated there.

Seam edge

For the seam edge, the edge stitches are worked in stockinette stitch, i.e. cast on the outward rows and purl on the return rows. This results in a solid chain stitch edge, which is recommended if knitted pieces are to be sewn together later or if a facing is to be knitted on.
Right side rows: knit...purl
Back rows: purl...purl

Nodule edge

The knotted edge also produces a solid edge. It is particularly suitable for knitting out knit stitches. Different variations of the knotted edge are possible:

1st variant: Simple knot edge
Creates a knot for two rows. In each row, the first stitch is slipped as for knit knitting and the last stitch is knitted. The simple knotted edge is suitable for work that is knitted in garter stitch.
Right side rows: slip knit...knit
Back rows: slip right...knit

2nd variant: Fixed knotted edge
Also known as a double beaded edge. The edge stitches are always knitted on the right, creating a knot in every row.
Right side rows: knit...knit
Back rows: knit...purl

3rd variation: Swiss edge
Corresponds to the fixed knotted edge in purl stitches. It is recommended when the edge should be as inelastic as possible, e.g. for knitted trims that must not wear out when buttons are sewn on.
Row to the right: purl...purl
Back rows: purl...purl

Perforated edge

The lace edge creates an elastic edge. After or before the edge stitches, yarn overs are placed in the outward row, which are knitted together with the edge stitches in the following return row.
Right side rows: knit, yarn over...yarn over, knit
Back rows: purl stitch and yarn over together... purl stitch and yarn over together.

Warp edge

The warp edge creates a loose and beautiful edge. Depending on the variant, the edge stitches are slipped in the back or front row and only knitted every second row. By lifting the edge stitches, they appear larger and always extend over two rows.

1st variation
Outward rows: slip left (thread in front of the work)...slip left (thread in front of the work)
Back rows: interlocked on the right...on the right

2nd variation
Forward rows: interlock right...right
Back rows: cast off to the left (thread in front of the work)...cast off to the left (thread in front of the work)

3rd variation
Both rows: lift off left (thread before the work)...right

I-cord edge stitch

The I-cord edge stitch produces a result similar to the warp edge.

1st variation
Row to the right: Slip the first two stitches purlwise (thread in front of the work)...purl the last two stitches.
Back rows: Slip the first two stitches to the right (thread behind the work)...knit the last two stitches.

2nd variation
Row to the right: Slip the first two stitches knit wise (thread behind the work)...knit the last two stitches.
Back rows: Slip the first two stitches to the left (yarn in front of the work)...purl the last two stitches.

Brioche edge

The patented edge is a particularly elastic edge.

Outward rows: interlock right, lift off left (thread in front of work), right...right, lift off left (thread in front of work), right.
Back rows: bind off left (thread in front of work), right, bind off left (thread in front of work)...bind off left (thread in front of work), right, bind off left (thread in front of work).

Picot edge

The picot edge provides a decorative finish, sometimes referred to as a "mouse tooth edge".

Row to the right: Cast on two or more stitches and fasten off again immediately...knit the last edge stitch in the pattern.
Back rows: Cast on two or more stitches and purl right away...knit the last edge stitch in the pattern.

Depending on the variant selected, the edges can look very different. This is relevant for open edges, but also for a possible later inclusion of stitches from the edge.

If you are knitting a project in rows, you turn the work at the end of each row and knit the stitches back on the reverse side. In knitting pattern, you will find pattern for the outward rows and the back rows.

To work stockinette stitch, the stitches in the front rows, i.e. on the front side, are always knitted. In the back rows, i.e. on the reverse side, you knit the stitches purlwise. They will then appear as knit stitches on the front.

Garter stitch means that both the back and front rows are knitted exclusively with knit stitches.

Fine stitch tip

Also use circular needles for knitting rows for larger knitting projects. The sometimes very large number of stitches can then be accommodated on the needle cable. The work is simply turned at the end of the row.

Projects such as gloves, socks, loops or, depending on the model, sweaters or even cardigans are knitted in rounds. Smaller rounds are worked with a set of needles, very short circular needles or using the magic loop technique. For large rounds, use circular needles in the appropriate lengths.

Needle sets consist of four, five or six knitting needles, each with two pointed ends. When knitting with a set of needles, the stitches are distributed evenly over three, four or five needles. The free needle is used to knit the stitches from the next needle.

When casting on, make sure that the stitches do not twist. When knitting, arrange the needles so that both tips of the needle from which you are knitting are at the top.

You can mark the start of the round using a stitch marker or a contrasting colored thread. However, you can also always recognize it by the starting thread hanging down at this point.

Fine stitch tip

A common problem when knitting with double pointed needles are the so-called "ladders", the loose transitions between the needles. To avoid this, always knit the first stitch extra tight, or stagger the last stitch by transferring it to the next needle and only then knitting it off. In this way, the gaps become invisible.

Needle sets are available in different lengths. As a rule, you will use 20 cm long needles. However, you can also use shorter or longer versions depending on the radius of the round.

Projects such as gloves, socks, loops or, depending on the model, sweaters or even cardigans are knitted in rounds. Smaller rounds are worked with a set of needles, very short circular needles or using the magic loop technique. For large rounds, use circular needles in the appropriate lengths.

You knit larger rounds with a circular needle whose cable length matches the radius of your knitting project. If the cable is too long, you will not be able to complete the round; if it is too short, not all the stitches in the round will fit on the cable. If you are using a needle system, you can also connect several ropes together. Needle manufacturers have recognized the usefulness of particularly short circular needles. There are now even extra-short circular needles that you can use for knitting socks and sleeves.

Cast on the desired number of stitches with the circular needle. Do not turn the work as you would when knitting in rows, but instead close the round by simply continuing to work with the very first stitch cast on. Make sure that the stitches do not twist when closing the round.

Fine stitch tip

There is a trick to avoid the step that often occurs when closing the round. To do this, take the first stitch unknitted on the right needle when closing the round and lift the last stitch of the cast-on edge over this first stitch onto the left needle. Pull the yarn tight, place the stitch marker to mark the start of the round and start with this stitch as the first stitch of the round. In this way, the first and last stitches are anchored close together and you can no longer see the transition.
transition is no longer visible.

Projects such as gloves, socks, loops or, depending on the model, sweaters or even cardigans are knitted in rounds. Smaller rounds are worked with a set of needles, very short circular needles or using the magic loop technique. For large rounds, use circular needles in the appropriate lengths.

If you prefer to knit smaller rounds with a circular needle instead of a set of needles, we recommend using the magic loop technique. To do this, pull the long rope of a circular needle out of the middle of the round. The magic loop is also called a "magic loop".

Cast on the desired number of stitches and push them to the center of the rope. Now pull the rope out of the center of the stitches to form a loop.

Cast on the desired number of stitches and push them to the center of the rope. Now pull the rope out of the center of the stitches to form a loop.

Once you have finished knitting the first row, move these stitches to the center of the rope and the other stitches to the left needle tip.

You always continue to work half rounds according to this principle.

Slipped stitches, also known as slip stitches, are used for decreasing stitches on the one hand and for so-called slip stitch patterns on the other. If these patterns are worked in two colors, they are also called mosaic patterns. When lifting the stitch, the stitch is either inserted as for purl knitting or as for knit knitting and then lifted onto the right needle without knitting it off. Depending on the pattern, the working yarn is carried in front of or behind the work.

Important note

A common error concerns the position of the working thread when the stitch is picked up. This is because it is not placed ON the needle, which would automatically result in an increase. When the stitches are lifted, the thread is always placed BEFORE or BEHIND the
stitch being cast off.

Slip a stitch on the right side

Slip a stitch to the right by inserting it into the stitch as for knit knitting, but lifting it to the right needle without knitting. The yellow stitch and the red stitch have both been slipped, once with the yarn in front of the work and the other time with the yarn behind the work. You can see from the fact that the stitches have been slipped to the right that the right stitch leg is now behind the needle.

Slip a stitch purlwise

Slip a stitch to the right by inserting it into the stitch as for knit knitting, but lifting it to the right needle without knitting. The yellow stitch and the red stitch have both been slipped, once with the yarn in front of the work and the other time with the yarn behind the work. You can see from the fact that the stitches have been slipped to the right that the right stitch leg is now behind the needle.

A raised stitch creates a gathering in the knitted fabric. For stockinette stitch pieces, work the raised stitch on the reverse side.

Knit to the desired position and then pick up a lower stitch on the left needle.

Then knit this pulled up stitch together with the next stitch.

If you want to cross two stitches together, there is a trick that you can use to make the crossing without a cable or auxiliary needle.

Cross knit stitches

Insert the right needle into the first and second stitch on the left needle...

... and knit the stitches together, but ...

... leave both stitches on the left needle first.

Knit the first stitch on the left needle again ...

... and then slip both stitches off the left needle.

Cross stitches purlwise

If you want to cross two stitches to the left, you can also proceed according to this principle.

Knit the second stitch on the left needle in garter stitch (i.e. insert through the back of the stitch), ...

... but leave this stitch and the first stitch on the left needle.

Now insert the right needle into both stitches at an angle (i.e. through the back stitch legs) ...

... and knit them together interlocked.

Slide both stitches off the left needle.

Fine stitch tip

You can also perform the crossing a little differently depending on the desired effect. Variation: Knit the second stitch as usual, then knit the first stitch normally and let both stitches slip off the left needle.

Once you have cast on the required number of stitches for your knitted piece, it's time to actually knit these stitches. The basis for this is knit and purl stitches. Once you have mastered these two types, you can start making your first knitted pieces.

HOLD THREAD AND NEEDLES CORRECTLY

The way you hold the needle and yarn in your hands and knit differs from knitter to knitter. While one knitter moves both hands when knitting a stitch, the next knitter keeps one hand still. The third knitter wraps the working yarn around the middle finger instead of the index finger, as you may be used to, and the fourth knitter holds the yarn in the right hand instead of the left hand (as we usually do). The differences in posture, movement and yarn tension are also the reason why the knitting pattern and the respective gauge can differ so greatly - depending on who is knitting. With a little practice, you will quickly find the most comfortable knitting position for you. But even advanced knitters should check their stance and the tension of the yarn from time to time and work on their own technique.

Continental knitting method - left-handed knitting

In Germany, the thread is usually held in the left hand and passed over the index finger.

It is up to you to decide how to achieve the most even thread tension.

English / American knitting method, right-handed knitting

In English-speaking countries, it is customary to hold the working thread in the right hand.

The thread is then placed around the needle tip with the right
tip of the needle.

Notice:

The knitting direction is the same for both methods, the only difference is that the working yarn is passed over the right index finger in one method and over the left index finger in the other.

RIGHT MASKS

Regardless of how and in which hand you hold the working yarn, the knit stitch is always knitted in the same way. To do this, insert the right needle from the front into the next stitch on the left needle. The working yarn is then picked up from above and pulled through the stitch. The new stitch is now on the right needle,
let the original stitch slide off the left needle.
Check: The new stitch is back on the needle so that the right stitch leg is at the front and the left stitch leg is at the back.

LEFT MASKS

To knit a purl stitch, hold the working yarn in front of the work. Insert the right needle from the right into the next stitch on the left needle. Place the working yarn around the needle top down and pull the needle through together with the new stitch. Let the original stitch slide off the left needle.
Check: The new stitch is back on the needle so that the right stitch leg is at the front and the left stitch leg is at the back.

RECOGNIZE STITCHES CORRECTLY

Over time, you will recognize the stitches on the needle and in the knitted fabric. But it's easy to lose track, especially at the beginning. Have I just knitted a purl stitch or a knit stitch?
You can recognize knit stitches by the small "V" under the needle and also in the knitted fabric. Purl stitches lie across like a bar. For all stitches knitted "normally" on the needle, the right stitch leg is always in front of the needle and the left stitch leg behind it. In contrast, there are "interlaced" stitches, which we show you here.

Stockinette stitch: A single knit stitch is colored light blue. The pink colored stitches are used to count four knitted rows. Four adjacent knit stitches are colored dark blue.

Stockinette stitch: This is the representation of the opposite side, knit stitches result in purl stitches on the reverse side.

Garter stitch: All rows (back and forth rows) are always knitted on the right. This means that the rows on one side alternate between knit and purl. The pink stitch on this front side is a purl stitch. In the row above, the light blue stitch is knitted from the front. Blue and pink therefore count as two rows. Two rows and four stitches each are also shown in dark blue.

Knit stitches appear on the back of the piece as purl stitches and purl stitches appear as knit stitches. Once you have internalized this principle, it will no longer be difficult for you to distinguish between knit and purl stitches on the needle.

Deeper stitches do not create a gathering in the knitted fabric, but a loop on top.

To do this, insert a stitch a few rows deeper. Depending on the desired effect, this can be directly under the next stitch or slightly offset to the left or right.

Bring the working yarn through and knit it together with the next stitch (unless otherwise described in the pattern).

Note

Deeper stitches are often worked in stockinette stitch as a decorative effect.

For a yarn over, pass the working yarn around the right needle before knitting off the next stitch. Yarn overs are used for lace patterns and for stitch increases.

A yarn over means that you have increased one stitch at this point. However, if you want the number of stitches to remain the same, you must knit a decrease in the opposite direction within the row.

Between two knit stitches

Place the working yarn over the right needle from the front and knit the following stitch as normal.

Between two purl stitches

Place the working yarn over the right needle from the front and bring it further forward before inserting it into the next stitch behind the working yarn to purl it.

Work several envelopes

If you want to work several yarn overs in quick succession, simply wrap the working yarn around the right needle the corresponding number of times. In the following back row, always knit the first yarn over in the pattern (i.e. on the left in a purl row and on the right in a knit row) and the second yarn over in the opposite direction (i.e. on the right or left).
right or left).

Fine stitch tip

A yarn over does not necessarily create a hole in the knitted fabric! To avoid such a hole, the yarn over in the back row is not knitted normally, but interlocked.

Interlaced stitches are deliberately twisted to give the stitch definition a more three-dimensional effect.

Knit knit stitches interlaced

Hold the working yarn behind the needle. Then insert the right needle into the next stitch from the right back instead of the left front and pull the working yarn through. Interlaced stitches are then crossed in the stitch definition.

Knit purl stitches crossed

To knit a purl stitch, place the working yarn in front of the needle as for a normal purl stitch. Insert the right needle behind the back stitch leg and pull the working yarn through.

Recognizing and differentiating between knitted stitches and interlaced stitches

Unconsciously knitting interlaced stitches is the most common mistake made by beginners. Simply check your stitches: while the right stitch leg is always IN FRONT of the needle when knitting normal stitches, the right stitch leg is BEHIND the needle when knitting interlaced stitches.

Cable patterns are created by crossing stitches in groups. As soon as more than two stitches are crossed together, the cable needle (or auxiliary needle) is used.

Example: the knotting of three stitches over the following five stitches. The working pattern in a pattern would be as follows:
Place 3 stitches on an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit 3 stitches, purl 2 stitches, then knit the 3 stitches on the auxiliary needle.

Place three stitches on a cable or auxiliary needle in front of the work.

Knit the next three stitches and let the auxiliary needle rest in front of the work.

Then purl the next two stitches ...

...and finally knit the stitches from the auxiliary needle. If you find it easier, you can also place the stitches on the left needle first.

Continue knitting in the pattern as indicated in the pattern.

The knitting pattern always state ...

• ...how many stitches are to be placed on the cable needle,
• ...whether the stitches on the cable needle are placed behind or in front of the work,
• ...how many of the following stitches are to be knitted,
• ...whether these are knitted on the right or left,
• ...how (whether knit or purl) the stitches are knitted off the cable needle.

Reading stitches and rows in cable stitch

Especially with cable patterns that extend over many rows, it is easy to lose track of how many rows have been knitted since the last cable. It is therefore helpful to learn how to count the rows within cable patterns.

A small hole will inevitably appear where the stitches are cast on. This small hole will help you to count the rows. Pull the pattern apart a little. Then count the rows above the hole. The first of these rows is the last cable row. Do not count this row. In the illustration, you can see 5 rows counted from the cable.

Depending on the manufacturer, cable needles are available in two to three sizes. Choose a size that is similar to the knitting needle size you are using.